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That on its own would take up a lot of the space available and so it would add significantly to the board dimensions.
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It may be OK on a PCB but the sheer number of components make it a big no-no for anyone wanting to get a vero build in a 1590B box. It can sound great with no "tone suck" causing capacitance, in a simple design which is easy to implement and replace as and when necessary.īut the main reason for me is the number of components in the flip flop switching. Even people who see the benefit of including a buffer over a true bypass only chain, many people (myself included) would prefer to use a single buffer of my choice, alongside true bypass switching. Firstly because of the low cost 3PDT stomp switches that are now readily available alongside a global fashion of everyone wanting "true bypass". Ibanez used a JFET and bipolar transistor flip flop setup to bring the bypass buffer in and out of circuit, but it's not something that we would implement in our layouts for a couple of reasons. Pulldown resistor at output is 100K in the TS9 and 10K in the TS808.Īnd that's it, so you could use a 4PDT switch with lug numbering like this:Ĭonnect wires from lugs 2 and 5 to where that resistor goes in the boardĬonnect wires from lugs 8 and 11 to where that resistor goes in the board Q2 emitter resistor is 470R in the TS9 and 100R in the TS808 If you're making a single effect switchable those differences are likely to be negligible at best because the rest of the components are the same and so you aren't going to get any other differences due to tolerances.īut if you do want to do this, the only differences are as follows: You could play a TS9 and TS808 separately and come to the conclusion that the differences are greater, but that will more than likely be because in two completely independent effects, some of the components may have changed and certainly the tolerances of the components will come into play making more audible differences between the 2. Well the only differences between them are two resistors in the output buffer and in all honesty the differences will be minimal if anything. I'll get to play this loud tomorrow and A/B it with my Klon clone. I loved the open headroom of the Klon, so i wanted to know how tubescreamers would sound with higher voltages. Still, it's better to use 25V (or higher) rated caps. So it's three 1N4007s to keep the voltage down, closer to 15 than 18. Pump board is small enough, so it doesn't bother me even when integrated. Measures 15,8V with battery at 9,8V :) I also added LED resistor to the pump board, as 15V and LEDs don't go together too well.
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With 1N4007s plus addition of one more for polarity protection (and to calm down the 9V input). If it has a tube in it, then we'll go with 12V positive tip. Positive ground ones get their own type of pumps too :) I only accept different wall warts for tube effects.
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I think it's better to build integrated pump when needed and run all boxes with the same 9V. No separate boxes to mix up things - too much hazzle :) Not all pedals are meant to be run (nor even could be run) at 15V, so that would take too much remembering.